Laird Hamilton SUP surfing in Epic Malibu conditions!! He shoots the pier twice!!! from Dual Hemisphere Media on Vimeo.
That video was taken yesterday! I knew the waves were huge on Sunday when we were at the beach, and evidently Hurricane Marie is causing giant swells. Unfortunately, I've got what Sophie had and there's no use listening or watching any current events, but it's the first day of my new year, I'm happy to be alive and hope that in my next life I am a surfer.
It's coming on September, and it's hot. I wish that it would rain. I feel guilty even watering my potted lime and lemon trees.
What are ya'll doing today?
Gorgeous! Do they surf in Bali or are the waves too calm?
ReplyDeleteI would never, ever in this lifetime or any other surf but if I don't get to the water soon, I am going to just die. I'm even having good thoughts about Dog Island and you KNOW that's crazy.
I hope you do whatever the hell you want, all day long. The birthday picture below this post is the sweetest thing. I'm doing nothing today other than existential agonizing. I don't recommend joining me.
ReplyDeleteI'm ghostwriting a 4,000 word chapter for someone on loving yourself. Tell me the universe doesn't have a sense of humor.
ReplyDeleteI hope you're just sick enough to relieve guilt at being still and doing nothing, but not so sick as to not enjoy it. Feel better soon, friend, but not toooo soon.
There's big noise in the neighborhood and I'm leaving my window open anyway because it's raining and then not raining and then raining. I plan to write and read for the rest of the day. I hope you get to lie around and whimper - always works for me when I'm sick. Take care of your new self, just born yesterday and still a gift to those who know you - and those who don't.
ReplyDeletelove,
v
Feel better. Do nothing
ReplyDelete. I danced this morning as I do most days now. I'm also celebrating a strange sense of freedom as I resigned from a Board I've been on for 15 years. What will I do now? I think you know!
sounds like you deserve some down-time. Sometimes an illness gives us that gift, ya know? I walked the university campus today (a good work-out) and busted my buns in the yard (feels so good), took a shower and a nap. Now I'm ready for our River Cats Baseball at Raley Field tonight. An usually busy day for moi.
ReplyDeleteHope you are feeling better this afternoon....
I STILL think you need to take those surfing lessons. :)
ReplyDelete